News flash: The term hair porosity isn’t new at all. In fact, it’s actually used by chemists and beauty scientists regularly to solve dryness, frizz, and damage. But the fact that more people are becoming aware of terms like these is a really good thing, because it all comes down to finding products that work for your hair type—not against it.
Knowing your hair’s porosity (something that’s frequently discussed within the textured-hair community on message boards and subreddits) can reveal a lot about your hair, like why you may be prone to flyaways or what the best products are for the style you want.
Essentially, porosity describes your hair’s relationship to water, and it can range from low to high.
“Hair porosity measures hair’s ability to hold moisture and is defined by how tightly or loosely bound the hair cuticles are. Connected by hair bonds, hair cuticles are the protein dense, outermost layer of the hair fibre,” explain the team at Kerastase.
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If you’re ready to get into the nit and grit of it all, keep reading as we explain everything you need to know about hair porosity, including what it means and how to determine yours.
What are the different types of hair porosity?
Porosity can be an indicator of hair health and uncovering yours can allow you to better support your locks by targeting particular concerns. Your hair should fall into one of the three main types:
Low porosity hair
“Low porosity hair is usually healthy, but water can’t easily penetrate the tightly bound cuticles – so deeply moisturising products are beneficial.”
Medium porosity hair
“Medium porosity hair is typically low maintenance, with a looser cuticle that can both allow moisture in and retain it easily.”
High porosity hair
“High porosity hair struggles to retain moisture because of gaps in the hair cuticle, often caused by damage to hair bonds.”
In high-porosity hair, the cuticle scales are open and lifted, exposing tiny holes and crevices along the strand. Highly porous hair is super permeable; it absorbs moisture like a sponge and releases it just as quickly, says David Adams, a trichologist and co-owner of Fourteenjay Salon. This leaves hair dry, weaker, and more vulnerable to damage and frizz.
And in low porosity? The cuticle tends to be tighter and flatter, so hydration has a harder time escaping. That’s an advantage as far as strength and moisture go, but a densely packed cuticle also makes hair more resistant to products, so ingredients can build up rather than penetrate and do their job.
Where does my hair fall?
There are a few ways to go about testing your porosity, although they’re not fool-proof. (Note: To get accurate results, make sure your hair is clean and free of any products).
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1. The water glass method
The most popular test is the water glass method. To do this, you would take a few stands of your hair (preferably stands that you’ve lost naturally from different parts of your head) and drop them in a full glass of water. If it sinks to the bottom, you have high porosity hair. If it floats, you have low porosity hair. If it sits in the middle, you have normal porosity hair
2. Elasticity test
Alternatively, you can try an elasticity test with wet hair to see if your hair breaks easily when you gently pull it. If so, it means the hair cuticles are closed together so that it’s difficult for water or any other product to moisturise the hair shaft—in other words, you have low porosity.
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3. Spray test
Using a spray bottle, mist a few spritzes of water on to your lengths. Beads will form on low porosity hair, while medium porosity hair absorbs moisture slowly and water quickly penetrates highly porous hair.
While definitely interesting, porosity tests aren’t super necessary. It’s not something that experts would advise to do yourself, as there are so many variables. Instead, your best bet is to just consult with a licensed stylist.
The best products for your hair’s porosity
Given that water opens your cuticle, your wash-day strategy can make or break your style. Here are some great options to try.
High Porosity Shampoo
ROBE Clean + Finish
Clean + Finish is ROBE’s all-in-one hair solution, crafted with a unique blend of natural texturisers and active oils such as Macadamia Seed Oil. This formula works to clarify and nourish the hair, making it the perfect treatment for curls and textured strands prone to dryness and frizz.
High Porosity Conditioner
MOROCCANOIL Hydrating Conditioner
When your hair needs a tall glass of water, there’s the Moroccanoil Hydrating Conditioner. This rich, softening shampoo is suitable for most hair types, and it’s formulated to add shine and reduce frizz as it detangles. Think of a really lush daily face cream, but it’s for your hair. Bonus: it’s made with argan oil, which your hair will likely love, and has no parabens or sulphates. Too good.
High Porosity Styling Product
Pureology Strength Cure Miracle Filler
A must have for those with blonde, highlighted or lightened hair that requires extra protection against heat damage. Repairing and strengthening, this easy to use hair mist contains strengthening Keravis, to help seal and restore damaged hair cuticles. Your hair is left feeling softer and stronger.
Low Porosity Shampoo
K18 Biomimetic Hairscience Peptide Prep Detox Shampoo
Hair with tightly packed cuticles needs a clarifying formula to really get in there and kick grime to the curb. This one is it.
Low Porosity Conditioner
Amika Hydro Rush Intense Moisture Mask
Water-based formulas with lightweight hydrators like Hyaluronic Acid are better for low porosity hair compared to heavier ingredients that will fill high porosity hair cuticles like Shea Butter. Made with squalane, hyaluronic acid and bio-fermented coconut water (a natural source of hydration), this five-minute mask is the key to healthy hair, with clinically tested results lasting up to five days.
Low Porosity Styling Product
OLAPLEX No.9 Bond Protector Nourishing Hair Serum
This super lightweight serum includes in the first row of its ingredients our low porosity hair’s best friend, hyaluronic acid! It is a silicone-free antioxidant hair serum that instantly shields hair from pollution and protects against heat damage while adding satin shine and reducing static and tangles.
