These days, it feels as if you can’t swing a reusable tote without hitting a bottle of kombucha, yoghurt or some other fermented food. While they’ve been around for centuries – Koreans started brining vegies at least 2,000 years ago – fermented eats have experienced something of a renaissance over the past decade, thanks to research establishing their effect on the gut microbiome (which plays a role in supporting sleep, minimising inflammation and more). Now the trend is expanding to your beauty shelf.
Although some ingredients, such as lactic and hyaluronic acids, have been produced via fermentation for years, more companies are fermenting products with ingredients such as peptides and mushrooms. The payoff? Skin benefits with less irritation. We share the lowdown on this intriguing approach.
What is fermented skincare?
Fermentation is quite simple once you understand the general basics.
“Fermentation is the process by which you feed an ingredient to a microbe – a bacteria or a yeast – and the microbe metabolises that ingredient into something else,” says dermatologist Dr Whitney Bowe. “That change happens for the better, unlocking nutrients and, importantly, bacteria.” With kimchi, for example, you’re feeding plain cabbage to lactobacilli (a bacteria), and over time, those lactobacilli turn it into kimchi.
The bacteria in fermented foods (which can also come in the form of probiotic supplements) support your gut microbiome, a delicate ecosystem of millions of microbes. Stress, lack of sleep and a sugar-heavy diet can throw it out of whack and trigger system-wide inflammation that affects skin health, explains Bowe. “An imbalanced gut is believed to contribute to chronic conditions, including eczema, acne and even premature ageing.” Now, on to product integration…
What does recent science say about fermented skincare?
While the evidence is evolving, fermented red ginseng was found to be both less irritating and more effective than its non-fermented versions, according to one study in Journal of Medicinal Food. Other research also suggests various plant extracts, when fermented, may possibly have a protective effect against sun damage. Keep in mind, though, it’s quite hard to definitively say that the amped-up effects of one fermented ingredient discovered in a given study can apply to all ingredients, says Bowe. But many of the ingredients in the products we gathered for you, like vitamin C,
have proven benefits whether they’re fermented or not. Bring on the bacteria.
A Note on Probiotics
Fermented ingredients are not the same thing as ‘probiotic’ skincare, which packs in live bacteria to alter the skin microbiome. With fermented options, the microorganisms work their magic ahead of time to deliver the goods.
Psst… If it’s a probiotic serum you’re after, Lancôme Advanced Génifique, from $83, lancome.com.au, stars seven pre- and probiotic fractions
How does fermentation come into play for beauty?
As with food, brands choose the ingredient, throw in microbes, then put the end products into serums, masks, etc. This is beneficial because…
1. Less is More
Fermenting an ingredient may mean that you need less of it to get the same, if not better, results than you would from its traditional counterpart. “If you ferment the plant’s extract [by adding bacteria or yeast and letting it work its magic], then you have more concentrated benefits,” says formulator Dr Loretta Ciraldo.
2. Sustainability Matters
Fermentation may offer a “clean” and possibly more sustainable way to develop ingredients. As the raw materials are plants and the microbes are the ones making the shifts, “it uses natural ingredients to make natural by-products,” says cosmetic chemist Marisa Plescia, a scientist at beauty retailer NakedPoppy.
3. It’s Sensitive-Skin Friendly
The ingredients also may become less irritating through the fermentation process, Ciraldo says. Is a particular ingredient too harsh for you? The fermented version may be all clear. The reason for this is still TBD, but experts speculate that it could be because fermentation helps strengthen the skin barrier by supporting acidity levels.
Best fermented skincare brews, as picked by our editors
Some of the best-in-bacteria products to try now.
Susanne Kaufmann Enzyme Exfoliator
Fermented algae addresses parched skin, while fruit enzymes polish for a smoother texture.
Swiish Glow Getter Sheet Mask
To improve collagen production, yeast ferment extract has been added to this hydrating sheet mask.
Ole Henriksen Barrier Booster Orange Ferment Essence
Thanks to fermented orange peel extracts, your skin can feel more refreshed and nourished.
Cultured Resilience Facial Oil
This drop features prebiotic ferment to soothe agitated skin and increase elasticity.
Clinique Moisture Surge Hydro-Infused Lotion
Aloe bioferment is the secret behind helping skin retain moisture, making this a saviour for a dry complexion.
Trinny London Boost Up Vitamin C Serum
Lemon peel ferment, along with vitamin C, offers brightening powers for more resilient skin.
ROH Clarify Scalp Scrub
This Clarify Scalp Scrub works to deeply cleanse, exfoliate & rejuvenate your scalp microbiome using fermented actives.
Glow Culture Super Boost 3-in-1 Microderm Facial
This 3-minute multi-tasking treatment boosts your glow by acting as an exfoliator, peel, and hydrator all in one. Formulated with 5X fermented ingredients and powerful actives, it brightens and smooths the look of skin, improving the appearance of dullness, rough texture, fine lines, wrinkles, uneven skin tone, and clogged pores.
Oribe Hair Alchemy Resilience Shampoo
If your hair is on the fragile side, this shampoo is for you. Ft. chia seed and fermented bamboo leaf, it’s like a supremely healthy hair smoothie.
AVEDA Color Control Conditioner
This conditioner works to reduce colour fade while giving hair a soft and silky feel, without the additional weight of silicones thanks to apricot and bio-fermented lactic acid.
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