We’re always on the lookout for new ways to perfect our skin (hello glass skin, matte skin, glowing skin, dewy skin etc etc). Lucky for us, the options are aplenty. It seems as if every week a new trend or product emerges, dangling the promise of The Glow to us. The problem is, a portion of these trends in particular don’t have much in the way of proven, science-backed results.
Microneedling looks to be the exception to this rule.
The procedure, while not necessarily new, has, over a short period of time, grown from resurfaced niche TikTok trend to mainstream popularity. It’s beloved for the fact that it’s a simple, cost-effective procedure that can be done from your own home, as well as in-clinic for the cashed-up of us out there. It’s no pseudoscience either. While it’s probably not suited to the more squeamish among us, microneedling has proven benefits.
Samantha Appel of The Skin Bar swears by it. In fact, she recommends it to everyone. “Professional microneedling, or collagen induction therapy, has quickly become the go-to skin treatment, and is the current dominant skin treatment in the U.S., so it’s no surprise that in-clinic demand in Australia has gathered momentum, as well as at-home products.”
So, what exactly is microneedling, and is it right for you? We’ve rounded up everything you need to know to make an informed decision.
What is microneedling?
Microneedling is a minimally invasive cosmetic procedure that uses a device equipped with fine needles that is applied to the skin to create tiny, controlled punctures. These micro-injuries stimulate the body’s natural healing process, boosting collagen and elastin production.
“Microneedling is a procedure that uses tiny needles placed in a face roller or automated pen to puncture the very first layer of skin,” explains international facialist Adeela Crown to Harper’s Bazaar. “The skin is a natural barrier, designed to keep things out, which is why only a small percentage of active ingredients ever penetrate the dermis. Microneedling helps create tiny entry points: doorways that stay open only for a short time post-treatment before the skin begins to close them down with new skin cells.”
Appel explains that there are two types of microneedling devices: home rollers and professional devices.
Home rolling and pen devices are great for product penetration, essentially delivering active ingredients deeper into the epidermal layer. For example, hyaluronic acid, vitamin C serums, niacinamide, and peptides are great for evening out skin tone and promoting collagen production. The roller increases the penetration and efficacy of these products.
Professional microneedling is an in-clinic treatment. The difference between home pens and rollers and professional devices is that home devices typically penetrate up to 0.5mm, whereas professional devices can treat up to 4mm. Generally speaking, professional microneedling targets deeper concerns, such as fine lines, pigmentation, sun damage, and acne scarring.
What are the benefits of microneedling?
Corri Marshall, co-founder of DermapenWorld, underscores the many benefits of microneedling, noting that, “It enhances skin texture, smoothens fine lines and wrinkles, reduces acne scars, and helps to even out skin tone by reducing dark spots and pigmentation issues.
Your skin isn’t the only beneficiary though. As Marshall states, microneedling is a relatively fast procedure and is certainly quicker than similar procedures, meaning you’ll save on time too.
“Preventively, daily sunscreen is non-negotiable – it protects against UV damage that ages the skin fast,” adds Marshall. In addition, incorporating antioxidants like vitamin C and niacinamide into your routine can help combat free radicals and brightens the complexion. Topical retinoids are also recommended for stimulating collagen production and reducing signs of aging.
Appel outlines the other benefits, too, and when to beeline for each treatment option. “I recommend using a home roller in conjunction with professional treatments. Home rollers bring minimal discomfort and have the convenience of being used at home. Just ensure you don’t use your home roller with retinol or glycolic acid, as these can burn the skin,” she says.
And when to opt for professional treatment? When you’re keen to induce that extra collagen production that requires some additional finesse.
Should you do microneedling from home?
Part of the allure of microneedling is that you don’t need professional treatment to get it done. There are many at-home options available, as Marshall explains. “Personally, I love using my at-home device, especially when I’m on-the-go. It’s perfect for my travel skincare routine and fits well with my busy schedule.”
For more severe skin concerns such as pitted scars, stretch marks, and deep wrinkles, professional treatments are recommended. These sessions usually utilise some heavier hardware which can achieve deeper penetration and more pronounced results.
Is microneedling safe?
Microneedling is generally considered safe when performed by a trained professional or with quality at-home devices. Professional treatments use sterile, precise instruments to minimise risks, while at-home devices should be used carefully to avoid potential issues. Ensuring proper hygiene and following aftercare instructions are crucial for preventing complications such as infection or scarring.
It’s important to speak to your clinician before embarking on at-home microneedling. This is due to the risk of infection and contamination.
How long do the results of microneedling last?
The results of microneedling can vary depending on individual skin concerns and the frequency of treatments. Generally, improvements in skin texture and appearance can last several months. Collagen and elastin production continue to enhance the skin’s appearance for up to six months following a session.
Does microneedling hurt?
Most microneedling patients only experience minimal discomfort. During the procedure, a numbing cream is applied to the skin to reduce pain. The sensation is often described as a mild prickling or tingling, rather than sharp pain.
Derma pens vs derma rollers
Generally the derma pen is a little more precise because it can get into smaller areas and offers acute precision (talking about the area around the nose and your lips). You can also manually manage the derma pen puncture depth more manually, as opposed to the broad rollers that are a one-size-fits-all approach. As a whole, derma pens are regarded to be a little bit more expensive initially, while derma rollers are cheaper but need replacing more frequently.
What should I put on my skin after microneedling?
Fermentation-based skincare can be one highly beneficial approach for your aftercare routine.
Glow Culture co-founder, Holly Holub, explains that, “After treatment, the skin is in a vulnerable state with tiny micro-injuries that require careful handling to promote healing. Fermented ingredients, rich in prebiotics, antioxidants, peptides and amino acids, can help accelerate the skin’s natural healing process by strengthening the skin barrier and reducing inflammation.”
“This is because fermented ingredients provide ‘food’ for the good skin bacteria and help balance skin’s microbiome to restore a healthy skin barrier. Better yet, fermented skincare is beneficial for all skin types,” says Holub.
See below for our top picks of the best fermented, soothing skincare.
