If you’re prone to pimples, you’ve likely heard plenty of stories about what causes acne — and what to do to *try* make it go away. But what’s really true, and what’s completely false?
While Tiktok may have you thinking that all you need to do is load up on salicylic acid cleansers and other over-the-counter treatments to keep your breakouts under control, the same rules don’t apply to everyone, and some forms of acne can be more severe than others.
So to debunk some of the most common myths, we reached out to Dr. Yumiko, a trained doctor and practising cosmetic physician with over 10 years of clinical experience as a surgical registrar in Plastic & Reconstructive Surgery.
@sydneyfacedoctor Day 4 since my friend the angry pimple appeared. When my skin is inflamed I use: 1. Mild cleanser with a bit of salicylic acid 2. Soothing serum e.g. @Osmosis Beauty Rescue MD 3. A healing balm for bits that need extra TLC 4. Sunscreen always! If you have sensitive skin, physical (mineral) is gentler than chemical 5. Near infra-red (830nm) LED under the Healite II device #acnetreatment #acneskincare #acneproneskin #aestheticdoctor ♬ original sound – Dr Yumiko
1. If your exfoliator burns—that means it’s working
“Your skin care shouldn’t sting, tingle, or burn on a daily basis. If it does, it means your skin is inflamed and continued use can lead to your skin developing other issues like dryness, tightness, and increased sensitivity. However, there are some hydroxy acids that are used as chemical exfoliants in skin care which can be good for your skin as they help to gently dissolve dead skin cells,” says Dr Yumiko.
“Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) work on the skin’s surface like glycolic acid, focusing on fine lines, wrinkles and sun damage where BHAs like salicylic acid work on the surface as well as within your pores to unclog and target uneven skin texture. If you are prone to sensitive skin, avoid overusing AHAs like glycolic and lactic acid. Slightly tingling should only be momentary, however, if you notice any adverse reactions consult with a dermatologist.”
2. You don’t need to moisturise if you have oily skin
“Everyone should moisturise no matter your skin type. Our skin needs both oil and water to maintain the integrity of our skin barrier, which helps protect against infection and environmental aggressors. Dryness and dehydration are two different things that require different approaches,” she explains.
“Dry skin is a skin type associated with a lack of oil – your skin might feel rough, flaky, or even itchy. Dehydration is a temporary condition when your skin is lacking water. We can increase the water in the skin by using humectants, which draw water in, these can include hyaluronic acid and glycerin products. Dry skin requires oil, so emollients such as botanical oils, ceramides, and fatty acids can be very helpful, whereas those with oilier skin should consider oil-free lotions, gels and lighter cream moisturisers.”
3. Pore strips are damaging to your skin
“One of the biggest misconceptions about pore strips is that they are damaging to your skin. They can be an excellent adjunct to a balanced skin care routine for clogged pores – they are even recommended clinical treatments focussed on removing tufts of hair (trichostasis spinulosa) which can look like blackheads or sebaceous filaments. The polyquaternium-37 ingredient in the Bioré Pore Strips becomes activated by water to become cationic (positively charged), which binds to substances that clog the pore which are predominantly negatively charged. It thereby acts like a magnet to what’s inside the pores rather than the surrounding, healthy skin. This is why it’s important to wet the skin before application. However, it’s important to note that they should not be used in active acne (whiteheads, cystic acne).”
4. You can’t treat acne scars if your acne is active
“When we talk about acne scarring, we’re referring to the indentations in the skin, called atrophic scars. Acne scar treatment is complicated and involves a detailed, long term plan with your dermatologist. The treatment depends on your skin type and the nature and severity of the scars. In general, if you have been on strong acne medications it’s best to wait until you have been o your medication for at least 6 months. Scar treatments include, but aren’t limited to, subcision, microneedling, lasers and collagen stimulators.”
5. You can shrink the size of pores
“It is not possible to reduce the size of pores, or permanently get rid of sebaceous filaments as they are a normal, physiological component of the skin. However, regular use of Pore Strips can reduce the appearance of pores. It’s a bit more like deep cleaning the bathroom or kitchen – regular small cleans are like your daily skin care, but once in a while you need to give it a deep clean,” says Dr Yumiko.
“A good maintenance routine for long term care of pores can look like: double cleansing at night, followed by a toner like Bioré Clear & Breathable 2% BHA toner, and a moisturiser. In the mornings, the most important thing is using SPF50+ sunscreen as the final step in skin care, and before makeup. Sun exposure is a contributor to enlarged pores because it damages the collagen and elastin that give skin its integrity, therefore causing pores to stretch. Bioré Pore Strip can be done after the cleansing step every one to three days as part of this routine, and this should lead to long term improvement and maintenance for the appearance of pores.”
Acne FAQs
What is the main cause of acne?
Acne is most commonly caused by a build up of sebum — which is an oily secretion that lubricates your skin and hair — and dead skin follicles. Bacteria builds up and then causes inflammation. Ostensibly, it is what happens when hair follicles become plugged up.
What is another name for acne?
The medical term for acne is acne vulgaris. Acne signs can vary on the severity, but they usually appear in a variety of ways: whiteheads (closed clogged pores), blackheads (open clogged pores), pimples (pustules), small bumps (papules), large solid painful lumps under the skin (nodules), painful, pus-filled lumps under the skin (cystic lesions).
Is acne the same as pimples?
Pimples are a symptom of acne, and there are many different types of symptoms (as listed above). Generally speaking if you have pimples it is a sign of acne, although not all people experience painful acne itself.
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