Red-wine braised beef cheeks

Some of the best things about winter and the shoulder seasons are dishes like these

By Silvia Colloca | Sep 26, 2024

When the weather is cool, even right up to the end of winter and in early spring, what’s better than a classic winter warmer to nourish and soothe? Pair a nice glass of red and it is the setting for a perfect evening.

Even for a summer person like me, this image is rather inviting. And while I would happily live 365 days of the year in 30°C and 80 per cent humidity, when the weather turns cold, I turn to brasato (braised dishes).

This is a timeless dish from the north of Italy, where they famously use Barolo wine to perfume the sauce. A less extravagant Pinot Noir or Montepulciano will work just as well, especially when paired with the nutty warmth of the cloves and juniper berries.

Yields: 4

Ingredients

700 g beef cheeks
75 ml extra-virgin olive oil
8 golden shallots, peeled
4 carrots, cut into chunks
4 celery stalks, cut into chunks
3 cloves
4 juniper berries, crushed
500 ml (2 cups) red wine (Montepulciano, Sangiovese or Pinot Noir are all good options)
Enough good-quality beef stock or water to cover
Salt flakes
2 bay leaves
freshly ground white pepper, for dusting (optional)

Directions

Step 1

Start by preparing the meat. Remove the sinew and excess fat from the cheeks.

Step 2

Heat the olive oil in a large flameproof casserole dish over medium–high heat and brown the meat in batches until nicely caramelised on all sides. Remove the meat and set aside.

Step 3

Add the vegetables, cloves and juniper berries to the meat juices and fat in the dish and cook over medium heat for 2–3 minutes. Increase the heat to high and deglaze the pan with the wine, scraping up any bits caught on the base. Cook out the alcohol for 3–4 minutes, then add the meat. Pour in enough stock or water to cover the meat and veggies and bring to the boil. Turn the heat to low, season with salt and add the bay leaves. Cover and simmer for 2–3 hours until the meat is fork tender.

Step 4

Spoon the sauce onto serving plates and gently top with the meat (and whole shallots, if using). Serve with a dusting of white pepper, if liked.

Getting dinner on the table for the family can feel like a chore, but with a bit of help from Silvia Colloca, you’ll be armed with the knowledge and recipes to make life in the kitchen so much easier. In Italian Family Food, Silvia shows you how to meal plan and cook like they do in Italy, with wisdom and tricks passed down from generations of clever, thrifty nonnas.