I’ll be the first to say that every now and then, my skin doesn’t have the same glow it normally does. And that’s not just a hunch, either. Science says so: One study of 50 women between the ages of thirty to fifty found that skin dullness increases with age. Bummer, right? Wouldn’t it be great if there were a simple habit that could help to reverse this age-related decline in skin luminosity?
There is—and it’s called exfoliation.
Whether you use a face scrub, a liquid exfoliator, or a dry brush, the process of sloughing away dulling dead skin cells can result in an instant glow. And the benefits don’t stop there. Exfoliating also unclogs pores and smoothens skin, according to board-certified dermatologist Amy Spizuoco, DO. “It removes the skin cells that are about to turnover and promotes that next layer of skin to rebuild a healthier, brighter complexion,” she says.
Meet the experts: Avnee Shah, MD, is a New Jersey-based dermatologist. Amy Spizuoco, DO, is a board-certified dermatologist based in New York.
Of course, you can have too much of a good thing. “If you’re over-exfoliating, you may notice that your face becomes red and starts to peel or flake,” says Avnee Shah, MD, a New Jersey-based dermatologist. And the same rules don’t apply for all skin types—there are different products and strategies you can use to tailor your exfoliation routine to your complexion’s unique needs.
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Read on for all the details, and get ready to refine your regimen. (Just remember to check in with your dermatologist if you’re planning on incorporating new products.)
What is exfoliation?
For the folks in the back: Exfoliation is a skin-care technique whereby you remove dead cells from the top layer of your skin. By removing this layer of clutter, exfoliation helps brighten your complexion and allows your skin-care products to penetrate deeper into your skin (making them work better), says Dr. Shah. It will probably also make your skin softer and reduce the risk of acne since those dead skin cells can accumulate and clog up your pores, she says.
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And as you age, engaging in this process becomes essential. At around 18 years old, skin’s natural ability to turn over its cells decreases by roughly 10 percent per decade, says Dr. Spizuoco. Exfoliation will help move things along and “promote that next layer of keratinocytes—the top layer and protective barrier of your skin—and skin cells to regenerate and reform,” she says.
Which types of exfoliation is best for you?
Before you grab the first face scrub that pops up on Amazon, you should know that there are two types of exfoliation (chemical and physical) and you may want to choose one over the other based upon you goals and needs. Here’s a breakdown of how the two differ:
- Physical: Physical exfoliation typically employs a tool (like an oscillating cleansing brush or even a washcloth) or face scrub to physically remove the dead skin cells. If you go this route, choose finer particles because they’re less abrasive, says Dr Shah. (Think: sugar scrubs and rice enzyme powders like Tatcha’s.)
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- Chemical: Chemical exfoliators, on the other hand, use alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) or beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) to help the dead skin cells break away from healthy ones, says Dr. Spizuoco. These include cleansers with salicylic acid, an at-home glycolic acid peel, or a moisturizer with some form of an exfoliating acid. Retinoids like over-the-counter retinol can also be considered exfoliants, since they also work to increase cell turnover. “I find that if people are using retinoids, they don’t really need to exfoliate on top of that,” says Dr. Shah.
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The best exfoliating method for you really depends on your preferences, as well as what kind of skin you have (more on that in a sec). Dr. Shah notes that dermatologists are recommending chemical exfoliation more than physical methods these days, especially since scrubs have the potential to create small tears in the skin that can lead to further inflammation and infection.
How often should you exfoliate your face?
As a general rule, less is more. The goal is to avoid turning beet-red or feeling a stinging sensation. You really just want to gently help along your body’s natural dead cell-shedding process so that your face glows. For sensitive skin, Dr. Shah advises skipping exfoliation altogether. (If you just can’t resist, use a creamy cleanser with a low percentage of glycolic acid once a week, she says.)
If you have oily skin or are acne-prone, you have a lot more freedom with your regimen—Dr. Shah says you can exfoliate up to four times per week (just make sure you work up to it over time), and your skin can probably tolerate both chemical and physical exfoliation. One option for your regimen, according to Dr. Shah, is to use an AHA-based cleanser two to three times per week and a facial peel pad once per week. Alternatively, you might work up to using a retinoid every day. Meanwhile, those with normal to combination skin can exfoliate twice per week by using a retinoid or an AHA or BHA cleanser.
For a smoother healing process, exfoliating at night is highly recommend since the process can make skin more sensitive to UVA and UVB damage from the sun, says Dr. Spizuoco. She adds that you can apply moisturizers with hyaluronic acid or niacinamide afterward to allow your skin to repair overnight. If you prefer to exfoliate during the day, just make sure to layer on ample SPF protection.
When should you skip exfoliation?
If you’re mid-breakout, you might be tempted to go to town with exfoliants—but you should actually avoid abrasive physical methods. “I see exfoliation in a lot of my acne patients doing more harm than good,” Dr. Shah says.
Why? If you have cystic or chronic acne, your skin is already inflamed. So irritating it further with harsher exfoliants can leave behind dark marks known as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. The marks can last even longer (and happen more often) in people who have tan to deeper skin tones, Dr. Shah adds. As for chemical exfoliants, they can help in some cases, she explains, but it’s best to get advice from your dermatologist before going for it because you’ll want to take a more nuanced approach to your exfoliation regimen.
Other times you should hold off on exfoliation: when you have any kind of cut or open wound on your face, if you have an infection on your face like a cold sore (it’ll spread!), or if you’re sunburned. Moisturizer and TLC is more of what your skin needs during those times.
How to exfoliate your face
Physical Exfoliation
- Using a clean brush or your favorite scrub, move in small, gentle, circular strokes around your face, says Dr. Shah.
- Keep your movements light. Dr. Shah wants you to think of it more like caressing a flower petal rather than rubbing a stain out of your favorite shirt.
- Rinse with lukewarm water so your freshly exfoliated face isn’t irritated by hot water.
- Pat face dry and apply moisturizer. Don’t skip this—Dr. Shah says exfoliation is always a bit drying.
Chemical Exfoliation
- To prep your skin, Dr. Spizuoco recommends washing your face with a gentle cleanser and lukewarm water to remove oil, dirt, and other impurities. Then, pat dry with a clean towel.
- Take your favorite chemical exfoliant and apply gently in small, circular motions after cleansing.
- If it’s a product that sits on your face (like a peel), follow the package directions for how long you should wait before rinsing off your face. If it’s a face wash, lightly rinse your face with lukewarm water.
- Pat face dry and apply moisturizer. Again, don’t skip this step!
If you still manage to overdo it, remember that no one gets a trophy in the exfoliation Olympics. Take a few days off, and come back when the seas (and your complexion) are calm again.
What to do if you over-exfoliate
It’s kind of ironic—peeling skin might make you think that you’re seeing results, or need to exfoliate even more. In reality, it’s a sign that you need to slow things down. If you went overboard, you might also be dealing with symptoms like irritation, redness, and increased sensitivity.
Granted, it’s not an ideal situation to be in, but the good news is a quick trip to see your dermatologist can provide you with the best course of action on next steps for recovery. And while it’s not always easy to get an appointment with a doctor on short notice, Dr. Spizuoco recommends sticking to soothing, non-irritating ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, and ceramides to repair the skin.
All in all, it is possible to exfoliate the right way from the comfort of your home, minus the irritation. Just take it slow and consult your doctor to ensure you achieve your most radiant skin in a safe way.
This article originally appeared on Women’s Health U.S.
