When it comes to the world of skin, more often looks to be more on the surface. But as it turns out there’s a movement afoot that’s both kind to our skin, and our wallets. Welcome to the world of slow skincare, where simple routines and limited products reign supreme. And we’re keen on it.
What is slow skincare?
Dr Prasanthi Purusothaman, GP and cosmetic doctor, explains slow skincare is the move away from aggressively active, urgent skincare and immediate results.
“Instead of always reaching for what is marketed or formulated as the most powerful, most potent, most ‘active’ product that promises to deliver results fast results, or practising exorbitant multi-step routines, slow skincare is about adopting a less aggressive approach. It honours simplicity to delivers results over time without compromising your skin barrier and resident microbiome,” she said. Amen to that.
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How to adopt the slow skincare approach?
If you’re jumping in, the general mantra is ‘less is more’ with your actives. Think about percentages and frequency of use. Start slow, be consistent and build your way up. The goal is to slowly build tolerance over time of those actives – after all, they’re not completely out. Once the skin tolerates lower potency for a period of weeks, you can then graduate to the next strength and so on to find your sweet spot of percentage and strength which can vary from the person next to you.
Look for balanced formulas with lower % actives to start. Actives include things like vitamin A (retinol, retinal, tretinoin), alpha hydroxy acids (glycolic, lactic, mandelic, citric, malic etc), beta hydroxy acids (salicylic acid), vitamin C and vitamin B3.
It is also possible for actives to be combined with some skin barrier supporting ingredients to both treat and soothe/restore the skin at the same time to negate any possible irritation. This could be things that bring hydration back or skin barrier identical ingredients or soothing ingredients: glycerin, polyglutamic acid, panthenol, ceramides, cholesterol, vitamin E
Why should we be mindful of slow skincare?
Historically people have thought that the stronger, or more potent, the ingredients, the more effective the treatment. But research has shown that in fact you’re jeopardising the integrity of your skin microbiome when you use heavy-handed products. After all, our skin barrier is extremely delicate.
Dr Purusothaman also points out what can arise from an affected skin barrier. “Aggressive ingredients can also throw off the pH of the skin barrier which is crucial to the homeostasis of the skin. The result can be stinging, burning, redness, flaking, bumps that then require a lot of TLC to settle.”
A 2020 study found that up to 71% in the general population reported issues with sensitive skin, and an increase of 55% in just two decades.
Dr Purusothaman feels this could be due to the rise of social media, and the fact that people are more aware of ingredients and what they’re putting on and in their bodies – which largely is great. The downside is that we’re not only inundated with products online and social – as well as testimonials and transformations – but we can sometimes misues products, and what may be right for one consumer, may not be for another. The one-size-fits-all approach is flawed when it comes to skincare.
What’s the most overhyped skincare ingredient?
“This may be controversial but I feel hyaluronic acid is super overhyped. There are much better humectant moisturisers for the skin, such as trusty glycerin. Studies have found the that an ingredient like glycerin is more effective at hydration than something like HA, and it effectively mimics the skin barrier, which is called the natural moisturising factor complex. Another goodie is polyglutamic acid which can increase your skin’s production of natural moisturising factors which is crucial in supporting our skin barrier,” said Dr Purusothaman.
Hyaluronic acid is also not such a simple slap-on-and-go affair. A lower molecular weight HA which may penetrate deeper can act as a pro-inflammatory molecule and ultimately cause more irritation. Also, if humidity is low or the percentage of HA too high it can also dry out the skin.
Dr Purusothaman’s top 5 recommendations when it comes to slow skincare
Fresh Lotus Youth Preserve Resurfacing Serum
Combination of lower % glycolic and citric acid for gentle exfoliation combined with polyglutamic acid to boost skin natural moisturising factor complex and buffer the AHA’s. Helps to reveal more even skin tone over time accompanied with hydration.
Paula’s Choice Skin perfecting 6% Mandelic and 2% Lactic Acid Liquid Exfoliant
Mandelic is a more gentle AHA option with a larger molecular size and 2% Lactic acid is a lower percentage than traditional lactic acid formulas and a part of the skin’s natural moisturising factor complex so supports barrier health without over stripping the skin. Great for acne prone skin.
Cerave SA Smoothing Cleanser
With 0.5% salicylic acid and niacinamide, this is a gentle yet effective cleanser for people with acne combining a sensible percentage of BHA with skin soothing niacinamide to combat inflammation.
Allies of Skin 20% Vitamin C Brighten + Firm serum
This uses a gentle vitamin C ester 3-0-Ethyl Ascorbic that is more stable than L Ascorbic and not as acidic in its pH, which makes it a gentle alternative for sensitive skin types combined with skin soothing antioxidants like Vitamin E.
Skin Fix Barrier + Triple Lipid Peptide Cream
A good skin identical ingredient moisturiser goes a long way. We love actives but moisturising the skin and replenishing the skin barrier is just as important for healthy, happy skin and a step that should be part of morning and evening routines and great accompaniment post use of actives.
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